Among them, the moon phase stands out for its presence on the dial and for the mechanical work it demands.

Understanding it allows a fuller appreciation of its reading, its precision and the role it plays in today’s luxury watches.

What the moon phase is on a watch

The moon phase is a watchmaking complication that represents the visible appearance of the Moon as its cycle progresses when observed from Earth.

It makes it possible to identify approximately when the Moon is new, waxing, full or waning.

Its most common presentation consists of an aperture in the dial. Beneath it turns a disc decorated with two moons set in opposite positions.

The shape of the aperture conceals part of the disc and reveals how the image appears, reaches its fullness and gradually disappears.

How the moon phase works in watchmaking

To reproduce the lunar cycle, the mechanism takes as its reference the synodic month, that is, the average time that elapses between two identical phases of the Moon, as happens between one full moon and the next, a cycle lasting 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.8 seconds.

To come close to the real duration of the lunar cycle, the conventional system relies on an assembly made up of a phase disc and a 59-tooth wheel. This wheel advances by a single tooth every 24 hours, which means it needs 59 days to complete a full revolution.

Depicted on this disc are two moons set in opposite positions, an arrangement that makes it possible to simulate two lunar cycles within each rotation.

In this way, each representation travels across the indicator in approximately 29.5 days, which is half of the wheel’s full rotation.

As the disc advances, the aperture of the watch progressively reveals the lunar image: first the waxing phase appears, then the full moon once the image is entirely visible, and finally the waning phase, until the new moon is reached once again, the moment at which the cycle begins anew.

This solution rounds off the real cycle and accumulates a deviation of one day every two years, seven months and around twenty days. When that point arrives, it is enough to correct the indication manually.

The mechanisms known as astronomical moon phases use more precise ratios. A 135-tooth construction, for example, reduces the discrepancy to one day every 122 years and 46 days.

The moon phase advances while the watch is running; if a mechanical watch exhausts its power reserve and stops, the indication remains at a standstill and must be synchronised again when the watch is set running.

How to read and adjust a watch with a moon phase

Reading the moon phase depends on the design of the aperture.

In the traditional arrangement, the image appearing at one end corresponds to the waxing Moon, the fully visible disc indicates a full moon and its withdrawal towards the other side represents the waning phase. When the Moon is hidden, the indicator is approaching the new moon.

To adjust it precisely, you first need to check the date of the last full moon in a reliable astronomical source and follow the instructions of the watchmaking house, since every movement has its own procedure.

On many calibres the indicator is set to the full moon and then advanced one step for each day that has passed since that date. The adjustment can be made using the crown or a dedicated corrector, depending on the watch.

Moon phase watches in luxury watchmaking

In luxury watchmaking, this complication makes it possible to combine mechanical precision, legibility and a refined dial design.

TUDOR introduced its first moon phase complication in 2025 within the 1926 collection.

The three versions of the TUDOR 1926 Luna share a 39 mm steel case 10.1 mm thick, sapphire crystal, water resistance to 100 metres and a steel bracelet with seven rows of links.

Inside we find the T607-9 self-winding mechanical calibre, with a power reserve of approximately 38 hours, while the moon indicator sits at 6 o’clock.

The TUDOR 1926 Luna M91560-0001 features a satin-finished champagne-coloured dial.

Its indication uses a golden disc to represent the Moon, partially covered by a black aperture.

The TUDOR 1926 Luna M91560-0002 has a satin-finished blue dial with applied numerals.

The TUDOR 1926 Luna M91560-0003 carries the same architecture over to a satin-finished black dial.

In every case, the finish of the dial directs attention towards the moon phase indicator.

We invite you to discover the TUDOR 1926 Luna at The Red House, in Gibraltar, and to appreciate up close the details and finishes that distinguish its three references.

Our team of specialists will offer you personalised advice to guide you in choosing the model that best suits your preferences.

In this article we take an in-depth look at COSC certification in order to understand what this certification involves within watchmaking.

What is COSC certification?

COSC stands for Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, the independent Swiss body that verifies the precision of Swiss Made movements and watches.

When a piece passes its tests, it earns the official designation of chronometer in accordance with ISO 3159 in the case of mechanical wristwatches.

In the traditional format, known as ‘Chronometer Certified’, each movement is examined individually before it is fitted into the watch; for this reason, the certificate is awarded to that particular calibre and not to the fully assembled watch.

In 2026, the body also announced ‘Excellence Chronometer Certified’, a complementary certification that extends the assessment to the fully assembled watch.

In this article we focus on the classic certification that accompanies selected TUDOR calibres.

How is the certification obtained?

To obtain COSC certification, the watch houses themselves send their movements to the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres.

There, each unit is examined individually and, in the case of a mechanical movement, it undergoes 15 days of measurements in five different positions and at three temperatures: 8 °C, 23 °C and 38 °C. These tests make it possible to verify how factors such as position and temperature influence the precision and consistency of the movement.

During the process, seven performance criteria are analysed, among them the average daily rate, the variations in precision between different positions, the influence of temperature and the movement’s ability to recover its rate after being subjected to different conditions.

To pass certification, a mechanical movement must record, among other requirements, an average rate of between −4 and +6 seconds per day.

TUDOR, for example, goes beyond this requirement in numerous models equipped with its COSC-certified Manufacture Calibre, applying its own standard of −2/+4 seconds per day measured on the fully assembled watch, compared with the margin of −4/+6 seconds per day that COSC sets for the movement.

Only movements that meet all the required criteria officially obtain certification as a COSC chronometer.

In addition, each certified chronometer is identified by a unique number engraved on its movement, which makes COSC certification an independent, objective attestation of the precision achieved during testing.

COSC-certified watches at The Red House

At The Red House you will find different interpretations of TUDOR watchmaking with COSC-certified Manufacture Calibres.

TUDOR Black Bay 54

The TUDOR Black Bay 54 revives the aesthetic of TUDOR’s earliest diving watches with a 37 mm steel case and a bezel without minute graduations.

Its MT5400 Manufacture Calibre, water resistance to 200 metres and balanced proportions make it an elegant and versatile watch.

TUDOR Ranger

With a 36 mm satin-finished steel case and a domed beige dial, the TUDOR Ranger stands out for its functional design and excellent legibility.

Its water resistance to 100 metres reinforces its robust character, ready for everyday wear.

TUDOR Black Bay Pro

Designed for those who need to keep track of two time zones, the TUDOR Black Bay Pro features the MT5652 Manufacture Calibre with an integrated GMT function.

Its 39 mm case, fixed 24-hour bezel and distinctive yellow Snowflake hand combine functionality, robustness and an instantly recognisable aesthetic.

TUDOR Pelagos FXD

The TUDOR Pelagos FXD expresses one of TUDOR’s most technical facets.

Its 42 mm titanium case, fixed strap bars and 60-minute ceramic bezel reflect a professional orientation, accompanied by the MT5602 Manufacture Calibre and water resistance to 200 metres.

TUDOR Black Bay Chrono

The TUDOR Black Bay Chrono combines the legacy of diving watches with the language of sports timing.

Its 41 mm steel case, opaline dial with black counters and tachymeter bezel accompany the MT5813 Manufacture Calibre, equipped with a chronograph function and certified by COSC.

If you would like to compare these references, check their availability or receive personalised advice, our team at The Red House in Gibraltar will be delighted to assist you, answer your questions and guide you in choosing the watch that best suits your preferences.

That mechanism is the movement, and understanding it is the best way to appreciate what sets one timepiece apart from another.

In this article we look at the types of watch movements that exist, how each one works and what distinguishes them from one another.

What a watch movement is and why it is also called a calibre

In watchmaking, the movement is the internal mechanism that drives the hands and the watch’s other functions, from the calendar to the chronograph.

Watchmakers also call it the calibre, a term used today to name each specific model of movement.

The classification of movements comes down to a simple question: where does the watch get its energy from?

Depending on the answer, we speak of mechanical movements or quartz movements.

Mechanical movements: the heart of traditional watchmaking

Mechanical movements are the oldest, and they all share the same principle: a mainspring stores energy as it is wound and releases it gradually through a gear train, while the regulating organ meters out that energy so the hands advance with precision.

The difference between its two variants lies in how that spring is wound.

Hand-wound mechanical movement

The hand-wound movement is the most venerable system in wristwatch making.

The wearer turns the crown to wind the mainspring and, as it unwinds, the energy is transmitted to the gears that drive the hands.

When the tension runs out, the watch stops and needs to be wound again.

That power reserve typically sits between 40 and 80 hours depending on the calibre, which in practice means winding the watch every day or two.

For many enthusiasts, that daily gesture is part of the appeal, a ritual that connects them with watchmaking tradition. In return, hand-wound calibres allow for slimmer constructions by dispensing with additional components.

Self-winding mechanical movement

The self-winding, or automatic, movement solves the hand-wound movement’s main drawback.

It incorporates a rotor, a semicircular component that spins with the natural motions of the wrist and winds the mainspring without any intervention from the wearer.

As long as the watch is worn regularly, it keeps itself running.

If the watch goes unworn for several days, the power reserve runs down and it stops, but thisis no problem at all for the mechanism: a few turns of the crown and a quick reset of the time are enough to bring it back to life.

This is the field in which TUDOR deploys the full extent of its watchmaking expertise today.

The TUDOR Black Bay 58 houses the manufacture calibre MT5402, a self-winding movement with chronometer certification (COSC) and some 70 hours of power reserve, the same one that drives the TUDOR Ranger.

It is the dominant mechanical variant today, although the rotor adds a little thickness and weight to the case.

Quartz movement: battery-powered precision

The quartz movement arrived in the late 1960s and transformed the industry to the point of triggering the so-called quartz crisis, which put traditional mechanical watchmaking on the ropes.

Its operation is electronic. A battery sends current to a quartz crystal that vibrates at a constant frequency of 32,768 oscillations per second. An integrated circuit counts those vibrations and converts them into impulses that a small motor translates into the advance of the hands — one crisp tick per second.

It is the most accurate type of movement, with deviations of just a few seconds a month.

By using fewer components, it also allows for lighter, slimmer watches.

Hybrid movements: Solar, Kinetic and Spring Drive

Between pure mechanics and conventional quartz lies a lesser-known third way.

Hybrid movements combine elements of both worlds, almost always with quartz regulation as their basis and a source of energy other than the traditional battery.

Solar-charged calibres turn light into electricity and store it in a rechargeable cell.

Kinetic-type movements generate that electricity by means of a rotor that spins with the wrist, as in a self-winding watch.

And the Spring Drive is the most singular case of all: it is powered by a purely mechanical mainspring, yet regulates its rate with the precision of a quartz oscillator.

How to tell which type of movement your watch has

Identifying a watch’s movement is within anyone’s reach with two quick checks.

The first is to watch the seconds hand: if it advances with a crisp tick every second, it is a quartz; if instead it glides in a smooth sweep, the movement is mechanical.

The second is to examine the piece itself. Many dials carry the inscription Automatic or Quartz, and an exhibition case back revealing a semicircular rotor gives away a self-winding calibre.

If the watch is mechanical, has no rotor and only runs when wound, it will be a hand-wound one.

Which watch movement should you choose?

There is no objectively superior movement, only the right one for each person.

Those who prioritise accuracy and being able to forget about their watch will find quartz the most practical option.

If you lean towards mechanics and value engineering in miniature, TUDOR is an excellent choice, with robust self-winding watches, manufacture calibres and a five-year guarantee.

We invite you to visit our boutique in Gibraltar, where you will receive personalised advice from our specialists.

In the following article, we trace its history and the features that define each of its models.

The history of the TUDOR Pelagos: from the French National Navy to the modern tool watch

To understand the Pelagos, one must look back several decades before its launch, when TUDOR began equipping some of the world’s most demanding military diving units.

The origins: TUDOR and professional diving

In 1956, the Groupe d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines of the French National Navy received references 7922 and 7923 of the Oyster Prince Submariner from TUDOR to evaluate them in real conditions.

The results convinced the group’s leadership, who rated their water resistance as perfect, and in 1961 the firm achieved the status of official supplier to the French National Navy.

In 1969 came another decisive milestone: the angular hands and hour markers known to collectors as ‘Snowflake’, which became the emblem of legibility on the brand’s dive watches and remain present across the entire Pelagos collection today.

The birth of the TUDOR Pelagos

The Pelagos was unveiled in 2012, the same year as the Black Bay, though with an opposite approach.

While the Black Bay reinterpreted the house’s aesthetic heritage, the Pelagos was designed from a blank sheet with a single objective: to create the perfect modern dive watch.

The evolution of the Pelagos collection

In 2015, TUDOR replaced the original ETA calibre with the MT5612, a COSC-certified in-house movement with a 70-hour power reserve, and introduced the first blue dial in the line.

In 2016 came the Pelagos LHD, with the crown on the left.

In 2021, the Pelagos FXD was unveiled, developed in close collaboration with the Commando Hubert, the combat swimmers of the French National Navy.

In 2022, the collection expanded with the Pelagos 39 and, in 2025, reached its ultimate technical expression with the Pelagos Ultra, water-resistant to 1,000 metres.

Features of the Pelagos collection

Although each model has its own personality, all share a series of traits that define the collection’s identity and explain its prestige among divers and collectors.

Titanium case and bracelet

Titanium is the hallmark of the Pelagos: this material combines lightness with great resistance to corrosion in marine environments.

In addition, the fully satin-brushed finish of the cases and bracelets produces a matt effect that limits sun glare underwater.

Extreme water resistance and helium escape valve

The collection ranges from the 200 metres of water resistance of the Pelagos 39 and the Pelagos FXD to the 1,000 metres of the Pelagos Ultra.

The Pelagos and Pelagos LHD models, water-resistant to 500 metres, incorporate a valve that releases the helium accumulated during saturation dives, thereby protecting the integrity of the watch during the decompression phase.

Legibility: luminescent ceramic bezel and ‘Snowflake’ dial

Legibility is an absolute priority in this collection.

The unidirectional rotating bezels carry ceramic discs with luminescent graduations, and the dials feature the ‘Snowflake’ hands and hour markers, whose generous volume of luminous material guarantees the reading of dive time in conditions of total darkness.

TUDOR Manufacture Calibres

The collection’s current models incorporate COSC-certified in-house calibres, with a silicon balance spring, a variable-inertia balance wheel and power reserves of between 65 and 70 hours.

The Pelagos Ultra goes a step further: its calibre MT5612-U also holds Master Chronometer certification from METAS, which guarantees precision of 0/+5 seconds per day and resistance to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss.

Bracelets with adjustment designed for diving

For the Pelagos, TUDOR developed and patented a self-adjusting clasp with a spring mechanism that contracts the bracelet when the neoprene suit is compressed by pressure during the descent and expands it as the diver ascends.

The most recent models add the ‘T-fit’ clasp, with five micro-adjustment positions requiring no tools and an extension that allows the watch to be worn over a diving suit.

Models from the TUDOR Pelagos collection available at TheRedHouse

The current range is built around five propositions that share the same technical DNA, each geared towards a different use and wearer profile.

TUDOR Pelagos LHD

Named LHD after the English term Left Hand Drive, it places the crown on the left of the case so the watch can be worn on the right wrist.

It pays tribute to the watches the French Navy commissioned in the 1970s for its left-handed divers, and is distinguished by unique details such as the two-colour date disc.

TUDOR Pelagos 39

With its 39 mm case and water resistance of 200 metres, it is the most versatile proposition in the range, halfway between technical diving and urban sophistication. It incorporates the ‘T-fit’ clasp and keeps the collection’s aesthetic codes intact.

TUDOR Pelagos FXD

Born of the collaboration with the Commando Hubert, it is recognisable by its fixed lugs machined from the very block of the case and by its reverse-graduated bezel, conceived for underwater navigation by countdown.

TUDOR Pelagos Ultra

Its 43 mm titanium case withstands depths of up to 1,000 metres, and its two-colour luminescence, blue for the hours and green for the minute hand and the bezel, makes reading easier during a dive.

The clasp incorporates a luminous indicator of the bracelet’s adjustment, a first for the line.

Discover TUDOR at The Red House

The Pelagos collection distils seven decades of TUDOR’s experience in professional diving.

Each model answers a real need underwater, and that functional coherence is precisely what has made it a benchmark in contemporary technical watchmaking.

As the official TUDOR retailer in Gibraltar, we at The Red House invite you to visit our boutique to discover the TUDOR Pelagos collection at first hand and receive personalised advice from our specialists.

Although it may seem like a secondary detail, the power reserve helps to provide a better understanding of the autonomy of a mechanical watch and the way in which its calibre manages energy. It is, therefore, relevant information both for those who wear a piece daily and for those who alternate between different watches within a collection.

What is a watch’s power reserve?

The power reserve of a watch is the length of time during which a mechanical movement can continue running when it is fully wound and stops receiving energy.

In simple terms, it can be understood as the autonomy of the mechanical watch. If a watch has an approximate power reserve of 40 hours, this means that, once fully wound, it can remain in operation for that period without needing to be wound again or worn.

When the stored energy runs out, the movement stops. In that case, it will be necessary to wind the watch again and set the time if it has remained stopped.

This concept applies mainly to mechanical watches, both manual-winding and automatic. Quartz watches also have autonomy, but this is usually referred to as the life of the cell or battery, rather than power reserve in the strict watchmaking sense.

How power reserve works

The power reserve depends on the energy stored in the mainspring, housed inside the barrel. This component acts as the energy source of the mechanical movement.

When the watch is wound, the mainspring is tensioned and stores energy. This winding can be carried out manually, by turning the crown, or automatically, through the movement of the rotor in automatic watches.

The stored energy is not released immediately. The movement transmits it progressively through the gear train until it reaches the escapement, which meters that energy into regular impulses. These impulses keep the assembly formed by the balance wheel and hairspring oscillating, which is responsible for regulating the rhythm of the watch.

As the mainspring unwinds, the available tension decreases. As long as there is enough energy to maintain stable oscillation, the watch will continue running. When that energy falls below the required level, the movement stops.

That interval between the full wind and the watch stopping is what is known as the power reserve.

How many hours of power reserve do mechanical watches usually have?

The usual power reserve in many mechanical watches is around 38-42 hours, although this figure may vary depending on the calibre, the frequency of the movement, the size of the barrel and the overall efficiency of the mechanism.

A reserve of around 40 hours may be sufficient for daily use, especially if the watch is worn regularly or wound every morning.

Reserves of 50 to 60 hours offer an additional margin, useful for those who do not always wear the same watch or who want somewhat greater autonomy.

At around 70-72 hours, the power reserve makes it possible to leave the watch unworn over a weekend and return to it, in many cases, without it having stopped.

There are also calibres with reserves lasting several days. These movements usually employ more elaborate technical solutions, such as higher-capacity barrels, multiple barrels or systems designed to optimise energy delivery.

Why power reserve is relevant

The power reserve should not be interpreted in isolation as an absolute measure of quality. A watch with greater autonomy is not necessarily superior to another with a more modest reserve. The assessment depends on the movement as a whole, its architecture, precision, finishing and the purpose for which it was conceived.

Nevertheless, it is an important feature from a practical point of view.

A watch with a larger power reserve can offer greater convenience to those who alternate between several pieces or do not wear the same watch every day. If the watch incorporates a calendar, moon phases or other complications, preventing it from stopping can be especially convenient, as subsequent adjustment may require more attention.

In luxury watchmaking, the power reserve also reflects certain technical decisions made by the manufacturer. Increasing autonomy requires balancing energy capacity, operating stability, calibre dimensions and long-term reliability.

How the power reserve is wound

In watches with manual winding, the power reserve is charged by turning the crown. As the crown is operated, the mainspring is progressively tensioned. When clear resistance is felt, it is advisable to stop in order not to force the mechanism.

In automatic watches, winding occurs through the rotor, an oscillating mass that moves with the natural gestures of the wrist. That movement is transmitted to the winding system, which tensions the mainspring again.

Some automatic watches also allow manual winding via the crown, although this depends on the calibre. If an automatic watch remains motionless for longer than its power reserve allows, it will eventually stop. To get it running again, it may be necessary to wind it manually, if the movement allows it, or to wear it so that the rotor charges the system again.

The power reserve indicator

Some watches incorporate a power reserve indicator, a complication that shows how much energy remains available before the movement stops.

It may appear on the dial, by means of a specific hand or scale, or on the back of the watch, visible through the transparent case back if the design allows.

This indication is especially useful in manual-winding watches, as it makes it possible to know when it is advisable to wind the movement again. In certain pieces, moreover, the power reserve indicator forms part of the watch’s aesthetic identity and brings visual balance to the dial.

At The Red House, a watch retailer in Gibraltar since 1937, it is possible to discover a carefully curated selection of luxury Swiss watches, from classic and timeless models to sports, contemporary or watchmaking-complication pieces. A variety of styles that makes it possible to find the right watch for every way of understanding elegance, precision and the passage of time.

Elegance begins with the proportion of the ring

Proportion determines the first impression of a wedding band. Its width, thickness and volume influence how it is perceived on the hand, more delicate, more pronounced, more discreet or more prominent.

In a jewel intended to accompany daily life, a few millimetres matter. A fine wedding band can bring subtlety; a wider one, presence and character. The right choice lies in a measure that flatters the hand, feels comfortable and maintains a balanced presence.

Thickness completes that reading. It can bring solidity without making the piece feel heavy, or lightness without making it appear fragile. The correct thickness gives presence to the wedding band without making it heavy.

If it is worn alongside the engagement ring, proportion becomes even more important. Height, width and profile must sit together naturally so that both pieces form a coherent whole.

The choice of metal defines the character of the wedding band

The metal marks the first relationship with a wedding band: its visual temperature, its weight on the hand, the way the light reflects and the way it will change over the years. The colour of a wedding band greatly changes the feeling of the jewel; it can make it more classic, warmer, more discreet or more modern.

Yellow gold preserves the most recognisable warmth of jewellery tradition. White gold gives the piece a more contemporary sobriety, especially when it accompanies diamonds or highly refined designs. Rose gold introduces a more intimate, softer nuance, with a less obvious personality. Platinum, due to its density and naturally white tone, brings a sense of solidity very much associated with high jewellery.

Each metal gives the wedding band a different presence. For this reason, choosing the metal means deciding how you want the wedding band to feel today and how you wish to see it age over time. Colour matters, but the real choice lies in the character that metal will give to the piece.

The most valuable personalisation is often the most discreet

Personalising wedding bands does not mean changing their design completely. Very often, the most important details are those that remain on a more intimate level: a date engraved inside, initials, a meaningful word, a special finish or a small variation designed for the person who will wear the ring every day.

In a wedding band that will accompany the couple for years, every detail must add something without disrupting the harmony of the jewel.

Personalisation can also be found in details that are not immediately visible: choosing a specific metal, adding a small diamond inside the wedding band, working a soft texture or creating two different rings that share the same detail. These are discreet decisions, but they give the jewel a more personal meaning.

Ultimately, a personalised wedding band does not have to attract more attention. What matters is that it feels truly your own, that it has been created for that couple, for the way they wear it and for the story it represents.

The finish should also be considered in the long term

The finish determines how the wedding band appears in the light. A polished finish has a more classic and luminous presence, a satin finish softens reflections and gives it more discreet elegance, while a matte or artisanal texture adds character to the ring.

The choice also influences the way the jewel will live through the passage of time. Shinier surfaces reveal small marks from wear sooner, although they can recover their appearance through polishing. Satin or textured finishes integrate certain marks better, but they also change gradually in the areas with the greatest contact.

In a wedding ring, that transformation is part of the piece. The right finish should be appealing on the first day, but also feel consistent with the way the jewel will be worn, cared for and remembered.

Diamonds should bring light without disrupting harmony

A diamond can change the reading of a wedding band with a minimal gesture. A well-positioned stone, a restrained line of brilliance or a pavé setting worked with precision is enough for the piece to gain light without losing serenity.

In a wedding band, the diamond should be integrated into the architecture of the ring. Its size matters, but so do the depth of the setting, the continuity of the surface and the way light travels across the piece. When these elements are well resolved, the brilliance accompanies the wedding band naturally.

If the wedding band is worn alongside the engagement ring, the diamonds should also respect the relationship between both jewels. They can accompany the main stone, extend its brilliance or introduce a softer contrast. What matters is that the whole feels considered, not accumulated.

The quality of a wedding ring is found in the details

The craft behind a wedding band is not always visible at first glance. It is often found in quiet details: the smoothness of the interior, the precision of the profile, the balance of the weight, the uniformity of the finish or the way the metal has been worked to preserve its beauty over time.

At The Red House, jewellers in Gibraltar since 1937, every wedding ring is born from that attention to detail. The selection of materials, artisanal care, precision of the finishes and guidance throughout the process make it possible to create wedding bands designed to last. Each piece is made in 18 ct gold, with options in yellow gold, white gold, rose gold or in a combination of rose and yellow gold, as well as platinum jewellery. We invite you to discover our catalogue of luxury jewellery.

Its importance lies in the combination of function and proportion. That is why the bezel deserves more attention than it usually receives. In many watches, it explains better than any other element what the piece was designed for.

What is the bezel?

The bezel is the outer ring that surrounds the watch crystal. In most cases it is circular, although on square, rectangular, tonneau or oval cases it adapts to the geometry of the design. Its position makes it a transition between the case, the crystal and the dial.

From a construction point of view, it can help to secure the crystal, close the upper part of the case and protect one of the most exposed areas of the watch. From a functional point of view, it can incorporate scales, numerals, luminous markers or rotating systems. From an aesthetic point of view, it defines much of the visual character of the piece.

From protective watch component to measuring instrument

Originally, the bezel had a mainly practical function: to protect the crystal and reinforce the upper closure of the case. As the wristwatch developed into a professional tool, this outer ring began to gain prominence. It was the perfect place to add information without overloading the dial.

In diving watches, the bezel became a simple way to measure elapsed time underwater. In travel watches, it made it possible to read a second time zone. In chronographs, it housed scales for calculating speed, distance or heart rate. In watches linked to aviation, it even functioned as a circular slide rule.

The evolution of the bezel neatly summarises the history of instrumental watchmaking: a component created to protect ultimately became a surface for reading, calculation and control.

Main types of bezel in watchmaking

The shape of the bezel greatly changes how a watch is read. Some are designed simply to frame the crystal discreetly; others add scales, rotating systems or precious stones. It is therefore useful to distinguish between them, although in practice many designs combine function, aesthetics and character.

The smooth bezel is the most restrained, while the fluted bezel, by contrast, plays more with light. Its grooves create changing reflections around the crystal and give the outline of the watch greater presence.

When the bezel incorporates a scale, the reading becomes more functional. The diving bezel usually marks from 0 to 60 minutes and allows elapsed times to be monitored quickly. The GMT bezel uses a 24-hour scale to track another time zone together with an additional hand. The tachymeter bezel, common on chronographs, is used to calculate average speed over a known distance, although its value today is almost as visual as it is practical.

There are also bezels associated with more specific uses. The pulsometer makes it easier to read beats per minute, while the telemeter allows distances to be estimated from the difference between seeing and hearing an event, such as lightning and thunder. These scales are less common, but they show the extent to which the bezel can turn a watch into a small calculating tool.

At the most ornamental end is the gem-set bezel, where diamonds or other precious stones surround the crystal and turn the outline of the watch into an architecture of light.

Materials and finishes of bezels in fine watchmaking

The material of the bezel influences the resistance, shine, colour and the way in which the watch ages. It also determines the type of finish that is possible, which is why this part of the watch requires such precision. It is highly exposed to view, and any irregularity is quickly noticed.

In metal bezels, steel provides a more technical and solid feel, with polished, satin-brushed or engraved finishes depending on the character of the piece. Gold, on the other hand, introduces a warmer and more ornamental presence, especially when used in fluted, polished or gem-set bezels. Aluminium allows for vivid colours and a lighter reading, although it may show marks or lose intensity over the years; in vintage-inspired watches, this ageing can form part of its appeal.

Ceramic occupies an important place in contemporary watchmaking thanks to its hardness, scratch resistance and colour stability. It offers a more modern appearance.

The finish ultimately defines the visual quality of the bezel. A polished finish must preserve clean edges; a brushed finish needs a consistent direction; a fluted finish requires rhythm and precision in every groove.

How can the bezel change the presence of a watch so much?

The bezel has a direct influence on how the size of a watch is perceived. Two 40 mm pieces can look very different. One with a thin bezel and wide dial will appear more open. Another with a wide bezel and prominent scale will seem more compact, technical and robust.

It also changes the intention of the design. A smooth bezel favours a sober reading. A diving bezel suggests practical use and safety. A GMT bezel speaks of travel. A tachymeter bezel evokes speed and timing. A gem-set bezel shifts attention towards light, brilliance and a jewellery dimension.

This is one of the keys to watch design: diameter matters, but the bezel can make a watch appear more elegant, more sporty, more technical or more ornamental without altering its actual size.

Luxury watches in Gibraltar

The Red House is a retailer in Gibraltar for the finest Swiss watch brands. You can find us at 68-70 Main Street and discover classic proposals alongside more modern and sporty pieces, with a wide variety of styles for men and women.

The confusion often comes from an overly simple idea: thinking that everything depends on centimetres. Length helps as a guide, but on its own it falls short. There are pieces that may seem very similar on paper and, once worn, behave in completely different ways.

The measurement is a guide, but it does not solve everything

In general terms, a choker usually sits close to the neck, with very little slack and hardly any drop. A short necklace, on the other hand, begins to move further away from the neck and descends towards the collarbone or neckline.

This classification is useful as a starting point and helps when reading a product description or comparing pieces. Even so, measurement alone is not always enough. A piece of jewellery may behave like a choker on one person and like a short necklace on another. The neck, body shape, design or rigidity of the piece can significantly alter the result.

That is why, rather than focusing only on a number, it is worth observing how the piece sits when it is worn.

What is the purpose of the piece?

The area where most doubts tend to arise is the transition between a choker and a short necklace. This is where it is easy for a piece to fall somewhere in between if only the measurement is considered.

What clarifies the difference is how the piece behaves when worn. If it hugs the neck and remains very close to it, it reads as a choker. If it already has some drop, however slight, and begins to trace a line downwards, it functions as a necklace.

This is why, in jewellery, it is advisable to look beyond the length written on the label. Two pieces with a similar measurement can convey something different depending on the type of clasp, the volume of the design, the presence of a pendant or the overall structure of the piece.

Drop and fit

A necklace is designed to fall. Even when short, it creates a line that descends from the neck and better follows movement. This quality gives it greater visual flexibility and makes it easier to integrate into different looks.

A choker behaves differently. It sits more firmly, closer to the face and more concentrated in a specific area. Rather than creating length, it frames the neck and collarbone. That is why, even with little development, it can have a very strong presence.

This difference becomes very clear when trying on a piece. A necklace usually offers more margin. A choker requires greater precision, because any excess thickness, width or height is noticed sooner.

Construction and technique

There is also a clear difference in the way each type of jewellery is constructed. A necklace usually allows for more flexible structures, such as chains, strands, cords or articulated links. This flexibility favours the natural fall of the piece and makes it possible to work with pendants or central motifs without forcing the overall design.

A choker requires greater control. Although it may be flexible, it must sit properly around the neck and hold its position cleanly. In rigid designs, such as collars or torques, this becomes even more important. If the weight is poorly distributed or the clasp does not support the piece properly, the jewel can move, rotate or easily lose its balance.

In a choker, these flaws stand out more, because the piece sits in a highly visible area and any misalignment is immediately noticeable.

What visual effect does each one create?

A necklace usually helps to elongate the visual reading of the upper body. By creating a descending line, it adds a little more depth to the outfit and usually works well with open necklines or garments that leave space around the chest area.

A choker concentrates attention higher up. It brings the focus to the neck, the collarbone and the face. When well chosen, it has clear visual strength and can define the outfit quite easily. That same ability also makes it more demanding: when the design encroaches too much or competes with the garment, the result suffers.

Here, fit and proximity to the neck are more decisive than the exact measurement. A very close-fitting choker immediately concentrates attention, while a necklace with some drop visually opens up the area and allows the outfit to breathe.

The neckline completely changes the result

One of the most common mistakes when choosing jewellery is assessing the piece without considering the garment it will be worn with. The same piece can work very well in one case and lose its purpose in another.

A necklace usually adapts better to open, V-shaped necklines or garments with enough space at the top. Its drop has room to sit, and the piece integrates naturally. In addition, depending on where it rests on the body, it can sit closer to or further from the neckline and significantly alter the final effect.

A choker needs the neck to be clear in order to be properly appreciated. When the garment leaves that area clean, the piece gains presence and is easier to read. If the fabric rises too high or already contains a lot of detail near the neck, the choker may lose definition or feel excessive.

It can work with high necklines, but it requires a very clear aesthetic intention and a design that genuinely makes sense in that position.

How to choose between a necklace and a choker

The choice should not be made on length alone. It is better to think first about the effect you want to achieve.

If you want a piece of jewellery that complements the neckline, adds drop and visually elongates the upper area, a necklace is usually the more versatile option. It works well when the garment leaves enough space and when you are looking for a piece that completes the outfit without concentrating all the attention on the neck.

If you want a piece with greater presence near the face, capable of framing the neck and clearly defining the look, a choker may be more suitable. However, it requires a better fit and a more precise relationship with the garment, because any excess volume or rigidity is noticed sooner.

Luxury jewels in Gibraltar

At The Red House, luxury jewellers in Gibraltar, you will find a wide variety of jewellery, including necklaces, as well as rings, bracelets and earrings. All of them are handcrafted using materials of the highest quality.

Understanding what the dial is and what information it can show helps you choose with judgement.

In this article you will discover the most common elements it can incorporate and the most notable dial types in luxury watchmaking.

What is the dial on a watch?

The dial is the surface beneath the crystal and above the movement, the visible surface on which the time is indicated and, where applicable, other information such as the date, seconds or a second time zone.

The components of a watch dial

To understand a dial, it is worth looking at it as a reading system.

Within that space it is decided what information appears, in what order it is perceived and how easily it can be interpreted.

Main elements that make it possible to read the time

Indices are the hour references that organise the reading of the time.

Sometimes they are shown as numbers, and at other times as markers, for example batons, dots, triangles or even a symbol characteristic of the brand.

Indices can be printed on the dial or applied in relief, adding greater visual depth.

The minute track marks the minute divisions and, when there is a central seconds hand, also serves as a reference for reading the seconds.

It is usually positioned on the perimeter of the dial or on an outer ring.

Additional complications on the dial

The date window, or date aperture, is an opening in the dial that shows the day of the month.

It is usually located at 3 o’clock or 6 o’clock and, in some models, is accompanied by a magnifying lens on the crystal to improve legibility.

The most common indication is the date, although depending on the watch it may also show a big date, day of the week or month, and coexist with other indications such as power reserve or moon phase.

When the watch adds more functions, they are usually arranged so that reading remains clear, at that point sub-dials and registers appear, organising indications such as chronograph counters or the small seconds to measure times.

Identity and details

On the dial, visual identity is built through the manufacturer’s signature, the typography and the accompanying texts.

The signature places the watch within a particular watchmaking house and acts as a reference for origin and authenticity.

Dial types in haute horlogerie

Below, we present some of the most notable dial types in haute horlogerie.

Sunburst dial

The sunburst dial, also known as the “sunray effect”, is identified by a radial brushing of very fine lines that originate at the centre of the dial.

Under direct light, the finish creates reflections that shift as you move your wrist, making the tone seem to change depending on the viewing angle.

This type of dial adds depth, dynamism and a sense of greater sophistication, as the light enhances the colour and emphasises the nuances of the finish.

Matte dial

It is an opaque surface, often with a fine texture that helps to avoid unwanted reflections.

This type of dial improves legibility in strong light or glare, which is especially useful in diving, field or military-inspired watches.

Enamel dial

The enamel dial is made by applying vitreous enamel, glass powder mixed with oxides that provide colour, onto a metal base.

It is then fired in a kiln to melt and fix it, usually in several very thin layers, with successive firings and a final polish that leaves a perfectly even surface. It is then fired in a kiln to melt and fix it, usually in several very thin layers, with successive firings and a final polish that leaves a perfectly even surface and a very characteristic shine.

It is a demanding process, the thermal cycles can cause micro-cracks, bubbles or slight variations in tone.

That is why it requires very precise execution and rigorous quality control.

Guilloché dial

Guilloché is an engraved decoration with geometric patterns on the dial that adds relief and a very particular reflection of the light.

In haute horlogerie it is distinguished when the pattern is engraved into the metal base, with clean lines.

It is often organised into zones, for example a centre with one pattern and an outer ring with another.

Skeleton dial

Skeletonised dials minimise the visible material on the dial to leave the movement on show.

Instead of a continuous surface, they reveal bridges, wheels and the architecture of the calibre, making the mechanics the star.

Open-heart dial

The open-heart dial maintains a traditional aesthetic, with indices, hands and a classic layout, but incorporates an opening, usually small and well integrated, that lets you see part of the movement in operation.

Visit our luxury watch retailer in Gibraltar, where you will find luxury watches that suit different lifestyles and personalities.

In 1816, Louis Moinet created the “Compteur de Tierces” as an instrument for measuring short periods of time, and in 1821, Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec applied it in a practical way to time races.

In this article you will discover how to identify a chronograph on the dial of a watch, what functions it offers and what happens inside the movement when you start, stop and reset the measurement.

What is a chronograph and what is it for?

At first glance, a chronograph can be recognised by its sub-dials and by a central hand that only comes to the fore when timing is activated.

In a watch, in practical terms, the chronograph allows you to start, stop and restart a measurement using pushers.

The measurement is usually shown with a central hand dedicated to the elapsed seconds and, depending on the design, with counters for minutes and hours accumulated.

In certain models, that measurement can also be used with scales such as the pulsometer or the tachymeter, which translate the recorded time into an estimate of heart rate or average speed over a known distance.

The watch, meanwhile, continues running and its usual display of the time.

How does a chronograph work in a watch?

When you activate a chronograph, what happens is that the movement, which is already delivering energy constantly to move the hands of the time, connects for a while an additional train dedicated to timing. That connection and disconnection is the heart of the chronograph.

The sequence is easy to understand if you think of it as three actions.

When you press start, the mechanism engages the chronograph with the gear train and the chronograph’s central hand begins to move.

When you press stop, the chronograph disengages and the hand stays still so that you can read the interval.

When you press reset, the watch returns the chronograph hands to zero.

To do this, hammers fall onto heart-shaped cams attached to the shafts of the chronograph hands (seconds, minutes and, if present, hours).

Thanks to that design, it does not matter where they have stopped, when they are pushed, the cams always return to the same reference point and the hands return exactly to 12 o’clock.

For the three chronograph actions to be executed precisely and always in the same way, the mechanism relies on two assemblies.

A control system, which directs the movement of levers and springs each time you operate the pushers, and a clutch system, responsible for connecting and disconnecting the energy that drives the chronograph.

What is the difference between a chronometer and a chronograph?

The chronograph is a complication designed to measure time intervals; that is, it adds a function for timing that is used when needed and read on its dedicated indications.

The chronometer, by contrast, does not describe an additional function. It is a rating of running accuracy.

For a watch to be a chronometer means that its movement has been tested under defined criteria and meets precision tolerances, as is the case with certifications such as COSC and the ISO 3159 standard.

In practice, a watch can be both a chronograph and a chronometer if it combines the chronograph complication with an official accuracy certification, and meets the criteria of the ISO 3159 standard.

Exclusive chronographs at The Red House

Discover our exclusive watches at The Red House and get closer to a complication that combines usefulness and mechanical precision.